Newfoundland’s Great Northern Peninsula

Newfoundland, more than any other province (yes, even Quebec), feels like a different country, which is not so surprising when you consider that anyone over 75 who was born in Newfoundland, wasn’t born in Canada. Their way of speaking, their music, their traditions, and their struggle to maintain a certain way of life, all contribute to the feeling that this province is not like the others. The people are as friendly and welcoming as they come, but if you weren’t born here, you’ve come from away. It’s like a club you can never join, but you kind of wish you could.

On our drive up the Great Northern Peninsula, we made a couple of quick stops to see more geological sites. I’m not a geology buff, but they were cool to see and a stark reminder of our insignificance in the grand scheme of things.

We spent a night in Port au Choix, and saw the woodland caribou that frequent the area. We ate warm rolls, baked in a replica French wood-fired oven, served with homemade jams and tea, while listening to the history of the area. Ray had a chat with the local ladies about wood-fired ovens, so I wouldn’t be surprised if he adds dinner rolls to his repertoire.

Annie Proulx, who wrote The Shipping News, owned a property in Gunner’s Cove in the late 1990s and early 2000s. That property is now Annie’s Retreat Vacation Homes, two large houses and a tiny building that used to be her boat house. We booked the tiny building for a couple of nights.

I became a bit obsessed with seeing a moose. Unlike caribou, moose aren’t native to Newfoundland, but four were introduced to the island in 1904. Those four must have gotten along famously because over a hundred thousand of their descendants are now spread across the province. That’s about one for every five people.

My desire to see a moose, either on the highway or in the wild, wasn’t necessarily well thought-out. Vehicle-moose collisions occur quite regularly in Newfoundland, some of them fatal (for the passengers). It’s also rutting/mating season, during which time moose can be unpredictable. Still, it was the only item I needed for my Canadian trifecta – seeing a beaver, a moose, and a Mountie in their natural habitat.

We came across moose tracks and moose scat and places where moose were said to frequent, but the moose itself remained elusive. St. Anthony, pronounced ‘Snatnee’ by the locals, has the highest density moose population in the world, and we did a couple of wilderness hikes there. You’d think we’d be tripping over them, but still nothing.

Finally, on day 8, on our drive back to Gros Morne, we spotted this one, with her calf nearby. I’d have preferred to see a bull moose rather than a cow, but I’ll take what I can get. Hunting season is approaching, so the moose may be making themselves scarce. They have no natural predators on the island, so a controlled hunt is held annually and moose burgers are a common menu item.

Back in Rocky Harbour, Ray climbed Gros Morne mountain, a challenging 6-hour hike. I didn’t join him because he was planning to do it at pace and I’d have slowed him down. Also, I didn’t want to.

While he climbed, I sat in a coffee shop listening to the locals chatting, which is a form of entertainment in itself. Then I found a quiet spot by the water to soak up the sun and contemplate life.

Early September was a great time to visit Newfoundland to avoid the crowds, and it was perfect hiking weather as the bugs, which can be quite bad at times, were virtually non-existent. I wouldn’t have wanted to be there much later in September as restaurants and attractions start to close as the tourist numbers dwindle.

Our timing wasn’t right for whale or iceberg spotting (which we knew when we booked), but we’d definitely like to return to see more of Newfoundland, so we’ll try to include those in a future visit.

We limit our vacations to ten days because we don’t think it’s fair to leave Juno for longer than that…but from the pics Bill and Lorrie sent us, she seems to have had a great time staying with her BFF Daisy.

The people in Newfoundland lived up to their hospitable reputation, but the best service of our trip was on the Toronto end, where we found a bed and breakfast that offered covered parking and airport shuttle, all complimentary! Unfortunately, you have to be related to the hosts to get this level of service. Sisters are the best. ❤️